As a teacher, the school calendar is a rhythm I know well — the buzz of exams, the sigh of breaks, and the blessed pause of Holy Week.
This year, I decided to do something different: I traveled across the Philippines during Holy Week, immersing myself in one of the country’s most profound cultural and spiritual traditions. What I discovered was a tapestry of faith, community, and breathtaking destinations that made this journey unforgettable.
Chapter Trail
Preparing for the Journey: A Time for Reflection
Holy Week, or Semana Santa, is the most sacred week in the Filipino calendar, culminating in Easter Sunday. It’s a time when cities slow down, people head back to their provinces, and faith is placed front and center. As I planned my trip, I made sure to respect the solemnity of the week. I packed light, dressed modestly, and left space in my schedule for both reflection and discovery.
Day 1-2: Palm Sunday in Pampanga – Faith and Flavors
I kicked off my Holy Week journey in Pampanga, known as the “Culinary Capital of the Philippines.” On Palm Sunday, I attended Mass at the centuries-old San Guillermo Parish Church in Bacolor.
Worshippers carried intricately woven palm fronds, called palaspas, to be blessed — a beautiful symbol of Filipino creativity and devotion. Outside the church, vendors sold suman (rice cakes) and halo-halo (a famous Filipino dessert). It felt like faith and festivity were intertwined in every detail.
Tip: If you visit Pampanga during Holy Week, don’t miss trying bringhe (a Kapampangan-style paella) and sisig — just be mindful that some establishments may close starting Maundy Thursday.
Day 3-4: Maundy Thursday and Good Friday in San Fernando – Witnessing the Penitensya
Holy Week in the Philippines is most visually dramatic on Maundy Thursday and Good Friday. I traveled to San Fernando, Pampanga, to witness the Pabasa (chanting of the Passion of Christ) and the controversial yet deeply rooted tradition of penitensya (acts of penance).
In Barangay San Pedro Cutud, I respectfully observed devotees reenacting the Passion, some even undergoing actual crucifixion as an act of sacrifice. While it was intense to watch, it highlighted the depth of faith and the idea of physical suffering as a form of spiritual cleansing.
Note: Always be a respectful observer. Photography is allowed in some areas, but always ask permission, especially during sensitive events.
Day 5: Black Saturday in Batangas – Quiet Moments by the Sea
After the emotional intensity of Pampanga, I sought a quieter place to reflect. I headed south to Batangas, staying near Laiya Beach. Black Saturday is a day of mourning and waiting, and the mood matched the stillness of the sea.
I spent the day journaling by the shore, reading spiritual reflections, and appreciating the slower pace. Locals prepared for the joyful Easter celebration, but for now, everything remained hushed and reverent.
Travel Tip: Holy Week is peak travel season in the Philippines. Book accommodations early and expect heavy traffic if you’re traveling by land.
Day 6-7: Easter Sunday in Lucban, Quezon – A Joyful Awakening
Easter Sunday is a celebration of resurrection and hope. I traveled to Lucban, Quezon, where preparations were already beginning for the Pahiyas Festival in May. The town was colorful, festive, and alive with Easter joy.
I attended the Salubong (a dawn reenactment of the meeting between the risen Christ and His mother, Mary), which was simply beautiful. The community came together to sing, dance, and celebrate, a fitting finale to a week of reflection, sacrifice, and faith.
Breakfast that morning was an explosion of flavors — Lucban longganisa (garlic sausage), pansit habhab (noodles eaten straight from a banana leaf), and freshly brewed barako coffee. Afterward, I strolled around town, visiting Kamay ni Hesus, a pilgrimage site featuring a 50-foot statue of Christ.
Lessons from the Road: Faith, Patience, and Gratitude
Traveling during Holy Week taught me valuable lessons beyond the classroom. I learned that faith, no matter how personal or traditional, creates strong, supportive communities. I learned patience in the traffic jams and gratitude in the quiet moments. And most of all, I found new meaning in Easter — a reminder that after every hardship, there is always hope.
As a teacher, I know that learning doesn’t stop outside the classroom. Sometimes, the most profound lessons come from traveling new roads with an open heart.
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