As a park ranger and part-time teacher, I’m always chasing two things: knowledge and nature.
And in May, New Zealand gave me both—wrapped in misty mountains, mossy trails, and Māori legends. Autumn there hits different. The leaves turn golden, the crowds thin out, and everything feels just a little more magical.
Let’s just say: Middle-earth lived up to the hype.
Chapter Trail
Queenstown: Basecamp with a View
I started in Queenstown, which locals call the adventure capital of the world. Picture this: jagged peaks, a lake as still as glass, and cafés that know how to make a flat white worth writing home about. I didn’t come for the bungee jumps or skydiving (though tempting), but rather for the crisp hikes and fall foliage.
May is late autumn here—cool enough to layer up, but not yet full-on winter. I hiked the Ben Lomond Track, surrounded by rust-colored beech trees and the occasional curious kea (a very cheeky parrot that tried to unzip my backpack). It was a workout, sure—but the summit views over Lake Wakatipu were worth every breath.
Milford Sound: Nature’s Cathedral
I’ve worked in parks across the U.S., but Milford Sound? It’s on another level. Towering cliffs, waterfalls streaming like silver threads, and a moody fog that makes everything feel ancient and sacred.
I joined a small boat cruise at sunrise. Seals lounged on rocks. Waterfalls danced down sheer cliffs. And for a brief moment, dolphins swam alongside us like it was choreographed. I was speechless—which is rare for a teacher.
Fun ranger fact: Milford Sound gets about 200 rainy days a year. I got lucky with a misty, moody sky that made everything look like a postcard from another plane.
Rotorua: Science, Steam, and Stories
Next, I headed north to Rotorua, where geothermal wonders bubble right beneath your feet. As someone who teaches earth science, I was in my element—geysers, hot springs, sulfur-scented air, and vivid pools in every shade of orange, green, and blue.
But the highlight? A traditional Māori cultural experience. I learned about their creation myths, carved symbols, and the importance of protecting land as sacred. It was humbling to see how storytelling and stewardship go hand in hand—something I plan to bring back to both my students and my ranger team.
Final Hike in Tongariro
Before heading home, I tackled the Tongariro Alpine Crossing—often called one of the best day hikes in the world. Volcanic landscapes, emerald lakes, steam vents…it felt like I was trekking across Mars with better scenery.
May is shoulder season, so I had long stretches of the trail to myself. Just me, the wind, and a whole lot of geological drama.
Ranger-Teacher Travel Takeaways
- May = magic. Autumn colors, smaller crowds, and crisp hiking weather.
- Layer up. Mornings and evenings are cold, especially in the South Island.
- Respect the land. The Māori principle of kaitiakitanga (guardianship) is powerful and something I deeply connected with.
- Leave no trace. Yes, New Zealand is stunning—but it stays that way because people care.
- Bring a sense of wonder. Every fern, fjord, and forest here deserves it.
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